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I'm genuinely
concerned for the soul of Randall Grahm, leader of Bonny Doon Vineyard.
I think he may have traded it -- along with an "a" from
his last name -- for the ability to make kick-butt wine at some
fairly impossible prices. (Sure, he also makes some fairly pricey
vino, but we're not talking about that today).
A crossroads
deal with the devil isn't the only way to explain it, but makes
the most sense. More on that later. First, let's talk about the
wine. A mere $10 (or less) gets you this fantastic "kitchen
sink" white wine that is, paradoxically, heavenly.
The nose is
floral with steel and mineral scents that make their own deals with
citrus notes. With so many grape varietals in here, it'd be easy
to have different qualities in conflict with one another, but good
and evil embrace in this golden-grey beauty.
The palate is
even better. It's a touch sweet, but in a dry, viognier way. And
the flavors are more than just viognier-ish. There are flowers and
citrus and crisp minerals, along with a mouthfeel that's just on
this side of fizzy.
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